Featured image for “Skincare for Sensitive Skin: Product Red Flags to Look For”

Skincare for Sensitive Skin: Product Red Flags to Look For

December 4, 2024

Sensitive skin reacts easily to its environment. This means that it may have unpleasant or undesired changes in response to things such as temperature, humidity (or lack of), pollution, sunlight, ingredients in skincare and color cosmetics, and ingestions (things we put in our bodies including medications, recreational drugs, food and drink).  

These bothersome changes are commonly experienced as redness, rough or bumpy texture, burning, stinging and/or itching.

One theory of sensitive skin asserts that sufferers are born with an inherited predisposition that makes them more likely to experience it. From there, symptom expression and severity is determined by exposures. This suggests that symptoms can be dialed down or controlled by avoiding problematic exposures.

This is why, when it comes to skincare, you want to find products that are not only sensitive to your skin’s particular needs—but also help ease that sensitivity and discomfort. As you assess the many options currently available, I recommend keeping these red flags in mind.

Common Red Flags in Skincare Products

Navigating the skincare aisle can feel overwhelming, especially when you have sensitive skin. With countless products promising to soothe and protect, it’s easy to overlook potential irritants hidden in the fine print. 

Learning to spot red flags in skin care formulations can save you from flare-ups, discomfort, and wasted money. Whether you’re shopping for cleansers, moisturizers, or serums, knowing what to avoid is just as important as knowing what to look for.

Alcohol

Non-fatty alcohols remove skin’s natural lubrication and protection. They include benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol (commonly known as rubbing alcohol), and denatured alcohol. They do NOT include cetyl alcohol, Cetearyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol, which are fatty alcohols found in many skincare products.

Fragrances and Perfumes

Fragrance and “parfum” are common culprits of skin irritation and skin allergy. These can be listed on a product label without disclosing the exact ingredients they contain, making it difficult to evaluate the risk a particular product poses to your skin. Further, they don’t serve any beneficial purpose other than to make something smell more appealing, so are best avoided for folks with sensitive skin.

Parabens

The paraben-free movement gained traction in large part because evidence accumulated that this class of ingredients can disrupt hormones. Their reputation as endocrine disruptors has historically overshadowed the fact that parabens can also cause skin allergy. 

Parabens are used to preserve cosmetics and topical prescriptions, ensuring that they don’t grow a harmful micro-organism if they become contaminated by one. Commonly found forms include butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben. It is absolutely essential to the safety of topical products that they be adequately preserved, but these days it can be accomplished without parabens.

Sulfates

Sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are potent skin irritants. Formulators opt for them in cleansing products because they foam well, are easy to get, and are relatively inexpensive. However, there are plenty of available substitutes that don’t carry the same risk of irritation.

Colorants and Dyes 

The color of a skincare product can be altered in a variety of ways, but many of these approaches introduce risks. For example, the D&C and FD&C dyes are produced from petroleum oil or coal-tar derivatives, which can be contaminated with heavy metals such as lead and arsenic. 

Mica, while naturally occurring, carries ethical concerns because most of the world’s mica is produced using child labor. Fruit and vegetable pigments such as cherries and beets can be contaminated with pesticides. In short, adding colorant to a skincare product often introduces worry without enhancing function, so choose that tinted moisturizer very carefully.

Ingredients to Approach with Caution

In addition to those red flags, there are a few other ingredients to avoid when choosing skincare for sensitive skin.

Essential Oils: While natural, some can cause sensitization and skin allergy. Sometimes the problem doesn’t appear immediately and can develop down the line, making it tricky to identify the culprit. This is why it is important that products using them are formulated carefully, tested rigorously before they are marketed, and monitored for problems once in the marketplace.

Exfoliants: Both physical (scrubs) and chemical (AHA/BHA) exfoliants can be too harsh if overused. Mechanical rubbing and scrubbing are not recommended for the hyper-sensitive skin of rosacea

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) can cause dryness, redness, irritation, and increased sensitivity to the sun. If you choose to try AHAs and/or BHAs, start with the lowest possible concentration, and use it only every 2-3 days on a carefully selected test site of skin.

Preservatives: Necessary but some types can cause irritation and/or allergy. Preservatives are essential to the safety of skincare products that have water in them. They are typically found near the bottom of the ingredient list (because they don’t make up very much of the weight of the formula). 

The group of preservatives known as parabens are excellent at preventing microbial growth, but many formulators have moved away from them in light of multiple health risks, including skin allergy. Unfortunately, some of the things that have replaced parabens can also cause skin allergy and/or irritation, including ethylhexyglycerin and phenoxyethanol.

Identifying Problematic Products

If you don’t really know much about skincare or the ingredients in those products, how do you identify what’s bad and what’s good? Here are a few simple steps to become a more conscious consumer of skincare.

Read Labels

The best way to avoid reacting badly to a skincare product is to read the list of ingredients. If shopping in person, the font can be impossibly small, even for young eyes, so don’t forget your reading glasses or magnifier! 

At a minimum, make sure you are comfortable with the top five ingredients. Ingredient lists in the United States start with the ingredient that makes up most of the formula, and go in descending order from there, until they reach 1% or less of the formula (that group of ingredients at the end of the list can be in any order). 

Research Ingredients

Check the EWG Skin Deep® database and other such resources to see what is known about the safety of specific ingredients. 

Do Patch Testing

Give preference to products that share the results of their patch testing so you can gauge the level of risk. If you choose to proceed, test the product on a small not-so-visible area of not-so-thin skin.

Understand Product Claims

Skincare labels in the United States are littered with meaningless and even misleading words and phrases designed to inspire purchase. Here is a sampling of terms that are not regulated by the FDA and do not require any specific testing or proof for the maker to use them:

  • Gentle
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Natural
  • Noncomedogenic

Safe Alternatives for Sensitive Skin

While it may seem next to impossible to find products that are supportive of your sensitive skin (we know, there are a lot of red flags and problematic ingredients!), we do have some options for you to consider.

Gentle Cleansers: Don’t trust a product to be gentle just because it claims to be. DO look for cleansers that are free from sulfates.

Moisturizers: Pick a moisturizer with hydrating yet soothing ingredients, like ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Be sure any oils or butters in it aren’t known for clogging pores—definitely avoid beeswax, cocoa butter, coconut oil, and olive oil. 

Serums and Treatments: In general, look for serums and treatments that hydrate and promote a healthy skin barrier. Opt for ones that include soothing ingredients such as allantoin, aloe vera, Avena Sativa (oat) extract, and niacinamide. 

Niacinamide requires a bit of caution, as it can trigger flushing if converted into niacin. To avoid that, do not combine products that have niacinamide and vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid).

Recommended Products: MeridaSKIN’s Trio of Products

All of our products at MeridSKIN were developed with all of these red flags in mind because I developed rosacea around age 30 and my previously care-free skin became incredibly fussy and embarrassing. 

My Sensitive Skin Story

I suddenly had to search for cleansers and moisturizers that wouldn’t trigger an angry skin reaction, and that proved very difficult. In the beginning, I picked products that claimed to be gentle or formulated for sensitive skin. I relied on those label claims because I didn’t know how to read a list of ingredients and didn’t know that those claims didn’t need to have any testing or proof behind them. 

Time and again I was disappointed and handed mostly full tubes and bottles over to my sister to see if she could use them. I got facials, tried cutting out caffeine and alcohol, tried multiple prescriptions from two different dermatologists, and paid out of pocket for laser treatment – all without lasting improvement. After about 5 years of this nonsense, I read an academic article on possible causes of rosacea and it gave me the idea to use tea tree oil at a low concentration. I began to improve but wasn’t happy with my crude concoction, so I took cosmetic formulation courses. 

What I learned is that ingredients, and the overall formulation, matter. A lot. I also learned that price has no reliable relationship to quality or performance. There simply is no substitute for reading the list of ingredients, asking about safety testing, and reading legitimate reviews. 

MeridaSKIN Rave Reviews

But I’m not the only one who loves these products—see what our customers love so much!

Katie P. loved that Merida SkinLabs’ Trio provided a simple, effective solution that finally calmed her rosacea, improved her skin’s texture and appearance, and eliminated the frustration of trying countless products without success.

“The search is over!!! I have had a red face pretty much my whole life. Prone to sensitivity, dryness, breakouts from changes in water, soap and skincare, stress, hormones – you name it. But since having children, what was once annoying redness on my cheeks turned into painful rosacea that sent me searching – mostly at Sephora – for a solution. There are many many many clean and sensitive products out there. Some tackling sensitivity, some tackling redness. I would spend hundreds of dollars on a new skincare line, coming home excited for a fresh start. After a few days, I’d be convinced it was working. But it wasn’t. Repeat x 100 for the past 7 years. Until I was introduced to the Trio by Merida SkinLabs. I love the feel of the foaming cleanser, the quiet spray truly quiets my face and the weight and moisture of the moisturizer is exactly right – not too much and not too little. I use these three products morning and night. And that’s it. Nothing more, nothing less. It’s been 10 months, and I’m never going back. The before and after of my skin is astounding. Not just the redness but my skin just looks happier, more supple, and SMOOTH!!! Tinted moisturizer glides on. I wear less makeup because I’m not desperate to cover unevenness, flakes, and blemishes. Smooth, clear calm skin. This is a godsend for rosacea but I’d recommend it to anyone with sensitive skin or skin prone to breakouts. You won’t regret it!” 

Leah R. loved that the products from Merida SkinLabs significantly improved her skin tone and reduced rosacea bumps while being light, non-greasy, fragrance-free, and gentle enough for her sensitive skin.

“My daughter had seen the website and suggested I check it out knowing how unhappy I have been with my face. Pictures always highlighted the uneven redness in my skin tone and consequently, I avoided putting myself anywhere near a camera. My skin tone is vastly improved and has not looked this good in decades. Even little rosacea ‘bumps’ have subsided. I am so happy with the results! I love that it is light, non-greasy, fragrance-free and non-irritating. The foam facial cleanser leaves my face feeling clean, not tight and dry. This is a must-try product for anyone suffering from this condition.”

Mary C. loved that Merida SkinLabs’ Trio delivered noticeable and lasting improvements in her rosacea, skin tone, texture, and pore size, with the calming toner being her favorite part of a highly effective and harmonious skincare routine.

”Just love this trio! I have struggled with rosacea acne for almost all my adult life, but in particular in the past 8 years. The change hasn’t been overnight, but I honestly did feel a difference almost immediately and my skin has continued to improve over the past two months that I have been using these products. I notice not only an improvement in my rosacea but also in the general tone and texture of my skin. My pores are smaller and the redness is almost gone. My favorite is the toner, so calming, but all three work so well together! Blessed to have found Merida Skin!”

Tips for Building a Sensitive Skin-Friendly Routine

Regardless of which products you use, remember to keep your sensitive skincare routine simple, consistent, and hydration-focused!

Less is More: More exposures equals more risk, so stick to the fewest number of products you feel you need, and avoid products with long ingredient lists.

Consistency: Varying your skincare habits or frequently introducing new things can make it difficult to identify the culprit if a problem arises. It also means you are unlikely to see the full benefit of a particular formula or ingredient because most things accrue maximum effect after consistent use over weeks or even months. 

The best practice is to pick a simple daily regimen and stick with it for at least one month unless unpleasant symptoms develop. If you want to make a change, vary one thing at a time, and space changes by at least 3 days (preferably a week). 

Hydration and Protection: Keep that all-important skin barrier healthy by avoiding over-stripping during cleansing and then locking moisture in with a moisturizer that has an emollient in it soon after washing. 

Emollients form a film that helps seal cracks in the outermost layers of the skin. Examples of emollients are glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Never forget the last step, which is protecting your skin from the harmful effects of UV rays. Apply a mineral-based sun protectant with zinc oxide anytime you are outdoors without a broad-brimmed hat.

Skincare for Sensitive Skin Does Exist

No matter what, the goal of effective skincare for sensitive skin is to keep it simple by sticking to a small number of carefully selected ingredients and products. Choose based on ingredients, safety testing results, and legitimate reviews, and ignore label claims (other than fragrance-free, paraben-free, and sulfate-free, which still don’t get you off the hook for reading the list of ingredients). Try to be consistent about what you use, and limit changes to one per week.

The journey through fruitless products can feel exhausting, but there is hope. For most people with rosacea, the solution is won through persistence and the extra effort of education, healthy skepticism, and careful selection. Keep at it and when you get there the relief will feel worth all the while.

Share:

Share:
Image

Shannon L. Johnson NP-C

Founder & Formulator, MeridaSKIN

Shannon is a nurse practitioner, and much of her career has served vulnerable populations at a community health center. She holds degrees from the University of Pennsylvania and Simmons University, and completed post-graduate training at the University of Massachusetts Boston. She tackled the science of cosmetic formulating to solve her own skin struggle with rosacea. Shannon was born in Oregon, raised in Eastern Massachusetts and has passionate ties to the Pacific Northwest, New England, and the mid-Atlantic. She lives on Boston's North Shore with her husband, two kids and mischievous Wheaten Terrier. She and her family pass the seasons by playing in water (liquid and solid).